Le Puy Camino - Le Puy to Conques

Arrive in historic Le Puy-en-Velay, a pilgrimage centre since the Middle Ages. This ancient town is surrounded by a volcanic landscape dominated by rocky peaks rising from the valley floor. We recommend that you allow at least half a day to explore its narrow streets and warm up your walking legs climbing the 267 steps to the Chapel of St Michael d'Aiguilhe. Built by Godescalc after his pilgrimage to Santiago in AD951, you'll have great views over the town and surrounding area. You can also visit some of the many museums and the striking Romanesque Cathedral of Notre-Dame.

The cathedral at Le Puy is the starting point for your walk. As you follow the trail, there are great views over the whole area. Through rural landscapes you'll ascend rapidly from the Puy Basin. Crossing the Velay Mountains past fields of the famous green lentils, you enter the heart of the volcanic chain of the Deves before arriving in the small village of St Privat d’Allier and your gite.

Distance 23km/14.3mi, +572m/1877ft, -390m/1280ft

Most of the day is spent crossing the valley. You will pass through the village of Rochegude, famous for its St Jacques Chapel, where a descent to the river at Monistrol will follow. Whilst the trail is easy to follow, the following ascent is quite sustained (500m over 11km) just beyond Rognac from where the route leads you to the historic village of Saugues, famous for its mushrooms, wooden shoes and a meeting point for all pilgrims coming from the Auvergne.

Distance 19km/11.9mi, +791m/2595ft, -694m/2277ft

Today is very picturesque as you cross the Margeride Plateau. With vast grassy plains and moors of broom and heather, this part of the trail is relatively easy going - although gently ascending most of the day. Amongst the most interesting sights are St Roch Chapel or L’Hospitalet du Dauvage Chapel, founded in 1198 as a hospital for pilgrims and travellers.

Overnight is usually in Les Faux or at times, subject to availability, further along at St Alban sur Limagnole.

Distance to Les Faux: 27.5km/17mi, +611m/2004ft, -628m/2060ft.

Distance to St Alban: 32km/20.25mi,+716m/2350ft, -829m/2404ft

Option: It's possible to split this stage (ie add an extra night) and continue to Les Faux/St Alban the following day. A supplement applies, please ask our team - must be requested at time of booking. The overnight stay will either be in Le Villeret / Chanaleilles (rooms have private facilities - distance 11.5km/7.2mi) or Le Sauvage (all beds are single width, the food served is mainly home grown, rooms have shared facilities - distance 19.5km/12.2mi) dependent on availability.

From Les Faux the trail continues to the town of St Alban then descends into the Truyere valley. From St Alban, traverse the vast plain of the Margeride before reaching Aumont-Aubrac. On the way, admire the Roman church of the Estrets, reworked several times and surmounted by a bell tower wall with three openings supporting a small steeple. Continue to Aumont where you stay tonight.

Distance from Les Faux: 22.5km/13.75mi, +383m/1256ft, -292m/964ft

Distance from Saint Alban: 15.3km/9.6mi

From Aumont-Aubrac in “Terre de Peyre” (land of stone), the trail crosses some beautiful pine forests before joining the Aubrac plateau, a vast expanse of pastures punctuated by “burons” (in the Auvergne region this is a shelter where the cowherd lives and makes cheese during the summer). Here you are in the country of the famous Laguiole knife, an indispensable tool to cut the cheese of the same name. Arrive at your hotel/guest house in Nasbinals.

Distance 26km/16.2mi, +392m/1286ft, -264m/866ft (highest point approx 1250m)

This stage takes you through the heart of the Aubrac plateau, where the ancestral rite of transhumance is still practiced (the transhumance fair is on the Sunday nearest 25th of May). At lunch time, you can try the regional specialties at a buron or country inn, where local dishes are available such as the “aligot” (mashed potato with cheese and garlic), assorted cooked meats from the mountain or a good crepe omelette. The highest point of the whole 750km between Le Puy-en-Velay and St Jean Pied-de-Port (1366m) is just before Aubrac. In Aubrac you can see remnants of an ancient “Domerie” (name given to the hospital in Aubrac in medieval times). Overnight hotel in St-Chely d'Aubrac.

Distance 16km/10mi, +207m/679ft, -583m/1912ft (highest point approx 1350m)

Today you leave the country of the “Boraldes” (name given to the brooks descending from the Aubrac) to reach the Lot valley. Here you are near St-Côme d’Olt, listed among the “most beautiful villages of France”. There are remnants of numerous bridges constructed over the Lot river which made the pilgrims' crossings easier. Continue to St-Come d'Olt, where the usual accommodation has a pool.

Distance 16.5km/10/3mi, +248m/814ft, -702m/2303ft (highest point approx 920m)

Subject to availability you may stay at Espalion further along the trail. Espalion has a lovely old stone bridge over the River Lot, the Pont Vieux, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has a lovely river front: the buildings with characteristic wooden balconies were once tanneries. The Friday morning market is reputed to be one of the best in the area.

Distance 21.5km/13.4mi, +330m/1082ft, -715m/2345ft

Continue your walk following the stream of the Lot river to the lovely village of Estaing, with its Gothic bridge and imposing chateau. There is one short, quite steep ascent at around the 4km point. The annual St Fleuret fair has been held in Estaing since the 14th century (on the first Sunday of July). On this occasion, a great procession travels through the village in period costume. Overnight hotel in Estaing.

Distance from Saint-Côme d'Olt 20.8km/13mi, +500m/1640ft, -559m/1834ft (highest point approx 490m)

Distance from Espalion 12km/7.5mi, +210m/689ft, -255m/837ft

Today is a straightforward walk, the last stage in the Lot valley. An ascent (approx 330m) is completed early on so you can enjoy the views across the hills as you walk along the plateau to Golinhac. Golinhac is remarkable for its church., which preserves the Roman foundations of a Benedictine priory, once dependent on Conques abbey. At the southern entrance of the village of Golinhac, there is a stony cross with a small sculpted pilgrim. In Espeyrac in 960, according to the tale, a pilgrim who became blind after a mugging, recovered sight by making an invocation to the patron saint of Conques. Overnight hotel in Golinhac.

Distance 14km/8.8mi, +512m/1680ft, -183m/600ft (highest point approx 660m)

The walk to Conques is very often a favourite for pilgrims, as the view over the village is breathtaking if you come from the east. While descending into the deep valley of the Ouche, you will arrive near the Dourdou river (which flows into the Lot river, to the north) and discover this village with pointed roofs over which the towers of the Saint Foy abbey-church dominate. Its tympanum of the Last Judgment is a true Romanesque art piece. Relax in one of the many bars to experience the atmosphere of this lovely town.

Distance 21km/13mi, +373m/1224ft, -757m/2483ft (highest point approx 670m)

The trip concludes after breakfast. We can assist with booking an extra night on request, or you can continue on the next stage to Cahors.