This largely enjoyable trip was something of a curate’s egg, part hiking, part safari, part sightseeing. Some lovely places were visited, but at times it felt that more time was needed. Three of the ten active days (not counting the arrival day) were taken up by very long drives (9+ hours) on bumpy, damaged roads (as flagged up by Explore!) in a cramped minibus. That meant that Pokhara, where we stayed twice, was a big disappointment for me – no time to do the multiple activities which it offers. The itinerary would benefit from a full free day there.
Whilst “luxury” is a relative word – don’t expect 5-star hotels – the mountain lodges were a cut above tea houses I’ve stayed in previously, being clean and comfy with ensuite bathrooms and hot showers, friendly service and excellent food, and fabulous mountain views. The hikes between them were quite tough, particularly Landruk to Ghandruk (we did the itinerary backwards) which is entirely up and down relentless, very steep, uneven, often broken stone steps, rocks and boulders – not for the faint-hearted. But each day’s hiking was worth it for the observations of local daily life and culture in the villages passed through, as well as the views.
The long drive to Chitwan would have been worth it had we even seen any rhinos, let alone tigers, but (nobody’s fault) we saw mainly just deer and a few monkeys. Have realistic expectations. But the sunset canoe ride on the river was wonderful.
Finally, a big thanks to tour leader Bimal , who was a lovely chap with a great sense of humour, well organised, and diligent in making sure that everyone was well looked after. And a big shout out to the incredible porters who accompanied us on the hikes, each carrying double kitbags for us all.
In summary, a great trip, some testing walking through picturesque countrysides with great mountain views, three uncomfortable minibus rides, and a frustrating lack of time in Pokhara.