WWI and WWII Battlefields

It’s been a week now, time enough to shake off the jet lag and think about what I learned and to integrate the memories and to share them. If it’s not asking too much, please post this on our Whatsap page. By this means, i want to thank my fellow travelrs for their kindness and helping me when i needed it. ——— Touring WW1 and WW2 Battle fields, war museums and Cemeteries is not a trip you do for fun. I did it because my dad, long ago, told me i must visit Vimy Ridge and Juno beach to pay respects to those who gave their lives so i could enjoy mine. There were many somber times but there was fun. and good memories too The Battle Fields : I lost track of how many we visited. Tragic events took place there so I think it was most appropriate that they were left as they were. Shell holes, bomb craters, mine explosions, tunnels, trenches, concrete bunkers and in some cases wire. I suspect there were many reasons for this. There are still unexploded ordnance which is dangerous. There are also, bodies covered by soil from shelling or sunk in the mud. People should see the devastation to get a better sense of what happened. A new thing I learned was about tunneling under enemy positions and setting off huge explosions. We saw one huge example. Everything above was vaporized and only a deep crater remained. Nature is gradually recovering the land. Only sheep graze on these battlefields now, to keep the grass and weeds under control and to minimize lethal explosions. A memorable event for me was the Passchendaele battles and the location where John McRea wrote his poem "In Flanders Fields the poppies blow, between the crosses row on row”. Every canadian kid in grade school memorizes that poem and recites it on remembrance day. The most striking was the Canadian monument at Vimy Ridge. Two 27m tall white stone towers on a 3m tall base. with the names of all those who died there inscribed on the base. It occupies a commanding view of the battle field. Canadian casualties were 10,602, including 3,598 killed over a 2 day battle. Every year Canadian university students are there in summer months to act as guides. They did not know they were docents. I taught them the word. The landing beaches and battle fields of Sword, Juno, Gold, Utah, Omaha near Caen, were breath taking. The cemeteries backing them were even more so. Based on the photos from DDay, the transformation from that time to now is quite remarkable. If one did not know the history, one might think they are resort towns. The War Museums : In London, Dunkirk, Paris, the information was appropriately graphic. Photos, weapons, depictions of the battles, news articles, personal accounts were sobering and fascinating. The escape from Dunkirk was a miracle. 450,000 soldiers were evacuated. The rapid advance of the technologies of war were incredible. Killing is getting easier by the decade. The reasons for it baffle me. What could motivate a soldier to go over the top or forward when a landing craft door drops, under very heavy fire, knowing they will likely die. Their courage is almost unbelievable. To me, in this day, it defies reason. But I did not live in those times. I suppose it would have been more obvious then. A side trip (back in time) to see the Waterloo battle ground and museum, where Napoleon was defeated was memorable. The battle lasted 12 hours with 40,000 dead and injured. The Cemeteries: I can’t remember how many we saw.. but i remember that they were all immaculate. The people who were liberated, revere the soldiers who fought and died for them. They care for their graves maybe better than they would for their own family. I was most impressed. In some cemeteries we found graves of our travelers family members. We all took time to pay respects and listen to them tell their family member’s stories. The US markers are a simple white stone cross with name, unit, rank, home town. They are oriented to face in the direction of the USA. The commonwealth markers are white stone slabs with an icon representing their country. Canadians have a Maple Leaf. Their name, rank, unit, home town, date and age are listed. (So many teens and early 20’s). Families of the fallen were given a place to have a personal epitaph inscribed. In all cases, where a soldier’s remains are unknown, there is a simple inscription “Known Only to God”. In every cemetery there is a wall of names of soldiers whose were known to have served and died at that location, but whose body was never found. In every cemetery there is a registry book where visitors could sign and pay respects. I never missed a chance to do that, thanking those who sacrificed there, for my life. In the commonwealth countries it was a policy, that where a soldier died, his body would have it’s own marker and space and would remain with his comrades forever. There were no common group graves. The US policy was to move all burials to a few larger cemeteries. The families of the fallen had the option to have their soldier’s remains returned to them. There were good times ; The tour start, meet and greet. Traveling with 30+ people from Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Singapore and USA was most interesting and enjoyable. I think I shared meals with, or at least had good conversations with, all my fellow travelers. We got along well and made the most of our trip. In Brussels, Time on the Grand Place and re-visiting and old haunt "The King of Spain pub”. Next Leuven . I visited a big cathedral, drawn in by music from a 30 piece symphony. the acoustics were wonderful.. i quite enjoyed it. Next, a Belgian Beer tasting was big fun for me. Next a nightly playing of the last post under the Menin Gates.. acoustics were wonderful. In Rouen we walked around the market, and the cathedral.. magnificent ! I really liked the Normandy countryside, farms and villages there. If imcould speak french, I’d be happy to live there. The french food ! At an equestrian center we had a wonderful buffet lunch. Maybe 25 choices. Beer and wine. At a great country restaurant, Auberge de Monts, I had the best meal i can remember. À TASTE OF NORMANDY. It started with apple cider and progressed thru 4 levels of alcohol content to a very strong apple Brandy, Calvados. I confess to having some of each. It really set the mood for a traditional Normandy meal. Cheeses and baguettes to start, served with a creme de Cassis and calvados drink (loved it). Next was a wonderful dark, creamy Normandy fish soup with croutons grated cheese and rouille sauce. The Wine was a Cotes du Rhone The main course was Normandy duck with peach sauce, potatoes and green beans. Desert was Normandy Tergoule ( rice pudding ) served at room temperature. It tasted like my mom’s recipe. In Amiens, we walked about. I went in to the cathedral to cool off and was entertained by a wonderful local orchestra playing several classical pieces Paris was hot but amazing, the restored cathedral de Notre Dame. The palace of Versailles, the arc du Triumph. The river boat cruise on the Seine, views of the Eiffel tower, my picture at the follies Berger, street parties on the way to La Nouvelle Eve Cabaret and Dinner. This was a real highlite. The music, songs, were great. The women dancers were very talented and gorgeous, some tastefully *******, the meal was great, the seats were hard on my bony butt. A great time with American, new Zealand and Australian friends at an italian restaurant on a canal in Amiens Our driver, Phillipe was excellent. He navigated some very tricky lanes to get us to rural cemetaries and thru heavy traffic in Paris. John Bromage, our guide/docent provided great commentary. He has a prodigious memory of historical events. It was sometimes difficult to keep us all together and on schedule, especially for old guys like me who do not wear a watch. He did a great job. Bottom line, this was my 3rd Trafalgar bus tour. I am very happy to carry these memories. Mac..

Food quality was average at best. Even though dietary requirements was informed in advanced, TD did not bother to check or assist. IOW why even bother asking for such details if nothing is done about it. There were way too many optionals (close to 10!). I understand you can opt out but it shows a glaring amount of 'free' time in between the tour. Surprisingly very few local guides were used. I had to leave the tour half way due to a death in my family. I had to figure out how to get back on my own. TD did little to help. My previous trip on Trafalgar was more than 20 years ago, I feel that it was organised in a much better way.

Watch your suitcases on Eurostar, as someone broken into my between London and Brussels.

Excellent itinerary - A trip that was on my bucket list for 15 years that I finally made happen. Being on Juno beach on June 6th was amazing and very moving indeed . Vimy ridge was also a wonderful experience. Waterloo was interesting London is always great although I would add the Churchill War rooms as part of the itinerary. we did it on our own .

ending in paris felt a little strange (and by that time we had museum burnout) but other than that was great