South West Coast Path: Padstow to Penzance - 13 Days

Make your way to Padstow. Padstow is a picturesque fishing port on the north coast of Cornwall, known for its charming harbour, sandy beaches, and vibrant food scene. Once a busy hub for the pilchard trade, today it draws visitors with its maritime heritage, narrow streets, and renowned seafood restaurants—most famously those of chef Rick Stein. The town is named after St. Petroc who came here circa A.D 500. The church of St Petroc is one of a group of three said to have been founded by the Saint.

Leaving Padstow’s busy little tourist harbour, follow the shores of the picturesque Camel Estuary to Stepper Point, with views to Bodmin Moor inland and to the ‘Doom Bar’: an off shore sand bar which has wrecked hundreds of ships over the centuries, largely because the surrounding cliffs take the wind out of the boat’s sails as they try to enter the harbour. In fact it became so notorious that many vessels would risk being wrecked on the coast rather than negotiate the entrance to Padstow in poor weather. More coves pass by until you see the limestone and slate Porthmissen Bridge natural arch with colonies of Razorbills and Guillemots. From here continue on to Trevone Bay, a beautiful sandy beach, popular with surfers and onwards to Harlyn, another surfer’s paradise but once famed for fishing pilchards. The coastal path reaches Trevose Head where on clear days you can see both St.Ives and Newquay. There is a lighthouse, which maybe open in the afternoon. The path then turns south and crosses more sandy beaches around Constantine, passing Trethias Island nature reserve, threading its way through coves to descend to Porthcothan Bay. Taxi (included) return to Padstow.

Start your day with a short taxi ride (included) to Porthcothan to begin your hike. From the bay the path climbs up to Park Head, which provides wonderful views of Bedruthan Steps, a set of rock stacks that have been a popular tourist feature since the railway reached Newquay in 1875 bringing the first travellers to the area. Passing the village of Mawgan Porth the route follows the cliff top above Watergate Bay. Approaching Newquay, the path arrives at Trevelgue Head and the largest Iron Age fort remains in the county. Continuing over Barrowfields, with its three Bronze Age barrows, the path descends to Newquay. The town overlooks fine golden sands, which cushion the Atlantic rollers and make this Britain’s surfing capital. Before surfing fame, Newquay was another famous fishing port, seining out the millions of pilchards that arrived every July. It was also a silver and lead mining centre.

Leaving the harbour, the path climbs up Towan Head past the whitewashed Huer's Hut, where lookouts would shout the arrival of the pilchard shoals to waiting fishermen, and then follow the cliffs around Pentire Point to take the ferry across the Gannel River. The path winds around headlands and coves to Kelsey Head, the site of an Iron Age promontory fort, and then descends to the village of Holywell, named after an ancient well and equally aged inn called ‘Treguth’. Following golden sands along Perran Beach, pass the tiny ruin of St Piran's Oratory, said to be oldest church in Cornwall (8th century) but reburied to protect it from erosion. Depending upon tide levels, you reach the village of Perranporth either by the beach or the cliff.

Today is more gentle as the coast path follows the cliffs around Cligga Head, past mineshafts, now home to horseshoe bats, and the remains of tin mines, with dramatic views of the mine buildings and chimneys dotting the landscape further on around St Agnes. Enroute you drop into Trevellas Porth and then Trevaunance Cove which has a waterside pub. It is then pleasant ascending to St Agnes Head past bird nesting cliffs, to the little village with the same name and terraces of miners' cottages including an interesting little museum in an old chapel. The path descends past the ruins of Wheal Coates Mine to the sandy inlet of Chapel Porth. Returning to the cliff tops, the path goes past the Wheal Charlotte Mine, drops down to the beach at Porthtowan and then follows the cliff top path to the harbour at Portreath, from where minerals were exported from the mines at Redruth.

Leaving Portreath, there is a strenuous climb up Tregea Hill and 10 km/6 miles of National Trust land, continuing high above the sea along Carvannel and Reskajeage Downs. You then reach a rather sensational breach in the cliffs called Hell's Mouth. At Navax Point, you might be lucky enough to see grey seals. Walking on to Godrevy Point you will see the lighthouse perched on Godrevy Island, probably the inspiration for Virginia Wolf's ‘To the Lighthouse’. The lighthouse marks the landward end of a treacherous line of reefs, called The Stones, which have claimed many wrecks and many of their victims are buried in the churchyard at Gwithian, a sleepy thatched cottage village with an interesting old pub, The Pendarves Arms. The path then meanders through the Towans sand dunes to the busy port of Hayle.

Today is a short day to enable you to discover beautiful St. Ives, with its museums and galleries. Skirting the Hayle Estuary, which is noted for its seabirds and waders, the path passes along the dunes above Porth Kidney and then passes beautiful Carbis Bay to reach the town. St Ives dates back to AD460, when the missionary St. Ia, daughter of an Irish chieftain, landed here and gave her name to the settlement. Protected from Atlantic storms, St Ives was once the most important fishing port in Cornwall, but like elsewhere on the surrounding coast, by the beginning of the 20th century, the fish stocks became depleted and the fishing fleet largely disappeared. However as early as 1811 Turner visited to paint the seascapes and by the late 1880s there were several artists installed and the town became famous for its vibrant artists' colony. This perhaps reached its heyday during the late 1940s and the 1950s. Today their work can be seen in the St Ives Tate Gallery, the Barbara Hepworth Museum and the Bernard Leach Gallery.

Fuel up with a hearty English breakfast before setting out on one of the most dramatic stretches of the South West Coast Path. Though the distances are relatively short, the terrain is demanding, with steep ascents, descents, and some boggy patches—but the spectacular coastal views make every step worthwhile. Departing St Ives, the crowds thin and the scenery grows more dramatic. You'll pass St Nicholas’s Chapel, dedicated to the patron saint of sailors, and an old lookout once used to spot pilchard shoals. The trail winds through a series of rugged headlands and dips before reaching River Cove, where seals can often be seen lounging on the rocks below. A final steep climb brings you inland toward the ancient village of Zennor, home to a charming church, a small museum of local life, and the atmospheric Tinner’s Arms pub. The area also has rich literary connections—D.H. Lawrence lived here briefly in 1916 while writing Women in Love. His stay stirred suspicion due to his German wife and pacifist views, and the couple were eventually expelled from the village on accusations of spying. Above Zennor, the moorland hides prehistoric standing stones and quoits, echoing the region’s deep history and mystery.

Rejoining the South West Coast Path from Zennor, the trail continues through a wild and rugged landscape, weaving its way along granite cliffs and secluded coves towards Gurnard’s Head. This striking promontory, topped with the remnants of a prehistoric cliff fort, offers sweeping views across the Atlantic and a sense of the area's ancient history. Take care as you pass near disused tin mine shafts—reminders of Cornwall’s industrial heritage—while enjoying the raw beauty of the Penwith coastline. As you near Pendeen, the path passes Geevor Tin Mine, one of the best-preserved mining sites in Cornwall and now a fascinating museum (open March to October) offering underground tours and interactive exhibits. Just before the village, a short detour takes you to Pendeen Watch, where you can visit the lighthouse and take in panoramic sea views. This section of the walk is rich in history, wildlife, and geological interest, making it a highlight of any journey along the South West Coast Path.

The trail from Pendeen Watch begins gently, tracing the cliff tops through a landscape shaped by centuries of mining. You’ll pass the haunting ruins of old lead and tin mines, including the Levant Mine, the site of a tragic accident in 1919 that claimed 31 lives. Today, its restored beam engine can be visited during the summer months. Just ahead lies the iconic Crowns Mine at Botallack, clinging spectacularly to the rocks above the sea—a favourite filming location for the BBC’s Poldark. The path veers slightly inland near Cape Cornwall, a headland once believed to be the westernmost point of mainland England until it was officially ceded to Land’s End. Continuing along, pass Carn Gloose, where an intriguing walled pit may be the remnants of a Neolithic shrine. The trail brushes past the historic village of St Just, where open-air ‘miracle plays’ were once performed in the medieval amphitheatre, before skirting Whitesand Bay and arriving at the charming harbour of Sennen Cove—a popular spot for surfers and walkers alike.

Start your day early to enable you to visit the sights of Land’s End, the most westerly point in England. Land’s End is a popular tourist destination with various attractions and it can be crowded at times. However, the spectacular seascapes make it worth the visit, with sweeping views out to the Scilly Isles and the Long Ships and Wolf Rock lighthouses. As you continue along the coast, the walking experience improves, leading you through the picturesque hamlets of Porthgwarra and St Levan. The trail brings you to the stunning Minack Theatre, an open-air venue perched dramatically on the cliffs, built by Rowena Cade. There follows a more challenging walk towards Penberth Cove and Porthguaron which are lovely places to pause. You will pass though Lamorna, with a famous once illegal old pub the ‘Lamorna Wink.’ The walk continues the walk around Penzer Point and views over Mounts Bay, and towards the island of St. Michael’s Mount. Next you will reach your destination of Mousehole (pronounced ’Mowzl’), a picture postcard village, with a history of pilchard fishing and now a small artists community.

The walk from Mousehole to Newlyn follows the road for much of the way, but you can take a more scenic inland route through the village of Paul, where you'll find a monument dedicated to Dolly Pentreath, who passed away in 1778 and is remembered as the last native Cornish speaker to speak no English. As you continue towards Newlyn and Penzance, you'll pass through built-up areas, as both towns are busy ports and popular tourist destinations. While Newlyn boasts a selection of charming galleries, many walkers opt to take a bus into Penzance, where you'll find a wealth of attractions. Penzance is home to a delightful mix of Georgian and Regency architecture, the striking Egyptian House, and cultural highlights such as the Maritime Museum and the National Lighthouse Museum.

Depart Penzance after breakfast.