'Every known superstition in the world is gathered into the Carpathians, as if it were the centre of some sort of imaginative whirlpool.' So says the narrator of Dracula, the late 19th century English novel of Victorian superstitions that used this area of Romania to represent something on the edge of civilisation.
A trip to this part of the world is to enter a maelstrom of natural sensation. There is everywhere a bewildering mass of flora and fauna. Profusions of trees and flowers and grasses are barely touched by agricultural exploitation. Be alert, however, for roe deer and chamois and hedgehogs and rodents, plus the sight and sound of the area's 190 bird species. Transylvania is a region full of beauty of every kind, sometimes little towns or castles on the top of steep hills.
This trek rises daily through Carpathian lower reaches, a green land full of forests and woods, with here steep hills crowned with clumps of trees, and there villages newly built in a riot of colour and style. Smile and say Boo Naa (Hello) and you'll meet open-faced strangers who say all the country people show 'hospitality, flexibility, honesty'. The message is that tourists are welcome.
