This was the first time that I had taken an Explore upgraded trip although I have travelled many times with Explore and also with other tour groups .
The accommodation at both Sarova Lion Hill Lodge and Sarova Mara Game Camp was excellent but the hotel at Nairobi (Tamarind Tree Hotel) was large and impersonal and I was disappointed in The Ark Lodge as the rooms were fairly basic with very narrow single beds. I understand the attraction of a lodge situated beside a waterhole allowing excellent elephant and buffalo viewing opportunities but expected better accommodation on an upgraded tour. The accommodation at Kipalo Hiils was nice but not everyone will appreciate the authentic safari experience, wall to wall lizards and bucket showers.
My main disappointment with this trip related to the Highlights of Kenya part when there were 7 travellers in our group. This meant two 4x4 vehicles with an assistant guide driving the second vehicle. The guide split the group into two with 4 in his vehicle and 3 with the assistant guide. When we left the Nairobi hotel did not realise that we would not be allowed to switch vehicles and, as a result, I spent the entire Highlights of Kenya trip with a married couple rather than rotating between vehicles and with different group members as I would have expected. While this was not ideal (for the couple or myself) it was soon clear that the assistant guide was under orders that he had to stay behind the guide's vehicle at all times. This meant that our vehicle often had a much poorer view of the wildlife as we were always at least one vehicle length and often 3, 4 or 5 vehicles further away from the wildlife. Not a problem for more common animals but very frustrating when we saw lions, cheetahs, leopard or jackals or rather didn't see because we were not there in time or had our view blocked by other vehicles. This would have been even worse in high season when there will be more vehicles in the parks. Because of this, the 3 of us in the assistant guide's vehicle had a much poorer animal viewing experience than those travelling in the guide's 4x4.
I mentioned my concerns to the guide on more than one occasion but was told that there was no movement between vehicles and I was quite insulted when I was told to buy a better camera when I explained that I was finding it difficult to photograph wildlife even if when using full zoom on my camera.
After leaving Masai Mara we headed back to Nairobi and 5 of the group headed home.
It was not clear from the Explore site or trip notes that the Tsavo part of the trip was actually an extension and that we would not have an Explore guide with us. Only 2 out of the group of 7 had opted to travel to Tsavo and we had a night in Nairobi after the others left before a very early start for our train journey to Tsavo. I don't know why we weren't seated together for the 4 hour train ride from Nairobi to Voi as our train ticket had reserved seating and with 2 solo females it would have been better if we had been sitting together on the train journey.
The Tsavo extension added around 50% to the cost of the trip and although I thoroughly enjoyed my time at Kipalo Hills it was not worth the extra expense from a wildlife viewing perspective. I had full day game drives in both Tsavo East and Tsavo West and we were very lucky to see a lioness in Tsavo East but I saw very little in Tsavo West despite the efforts of the guide and driver. Although Tsavo is the biggest game park in Kenya the terrain makes it very difficult to spot anything other than elephant, zebra and giraffes. Even bird spotting is very difficult as the noise of an approaching 4x4 causes everything to take flight.
Kipalo Hills is situated in Mbulia Conservancy and on the first afternoon we had a short drive in the conservancy but only saw guinea fowl, hornbill and a couple of elephants because of the terrain.
Apart from at the Nairobi hotel all meals were included on the trip and the buffet meals at Aberdare Country House, Ark and both Sarova properties offered a wide selection to suit most tastes. The food at Kipalo Hills was of good quality but there was no choice as Chef Daniel simply came to your table and told you what he had prepared for the meal.
There was a group tip kitty of $30 for the first part of the trip and at the welcome meeting we were told by the guide that he expected a tip of $50 minimum. Explore trip notes suggested an additional $40 tip for those on the Tsavo extension but on arrival at Kipalo Hills my room contained a note saying that guests were expected to tip at least $15 per day for the tip kitty which was split between all staff and to also individually tip their guide and driver. As I was there for 3 nights and had 2 full day game drives this meant another $85.
Overall this was a good trip but I am left disappointed by the fact that it could have been a great trip had the guide listened to the concerns I raised. I have raised this matter with Explore in the hope that future travellers do not face similar issues.
