Upgraded - Highlights of Kenya & Tsavo

This was the first time that I had taken an Explore upgraded trip although I have travelled many times with Explore and also with other tour groups . The accommodation at both Sarova Lion Hill Lodge and Sarova Mara Game Camp was excellent but the hotel at Nairobi (Tamarind Tree Hotel) was large and impersonal and I was disappointed in The Ark Lodge as the rooms were fairly basic with very narrow single beds. I understand the attraction of a lodge situated beside a waterhole allowing excellent elephant and buffalo viewing opportunities but expected better accommodation on an upgraded tour. The accommodation at Kipalo Hiils was nice but not everyone will appreciate the authentic safari experience, wall to wall lizards and bucket showers. My main disappointment with this trip related to the Highlights of Kenya part when there were 7 travellers in our group. This meant two 4x4 vehicles with an assistant guide driving the second vehicle. The guide split the group into two with 4 in his vehicle and 3 with the assistant guide. When we left the Nairobi hotel did not realise that we would not be allowed to switch vehicles and, as a result, I spent the entire Highlights of Kenya trip with a married couple rather than rotating between vehicles and with different group members as I would have expected. While this was not ideal (for the couple or myself) it was soon clear that the assistant guide was under orders that he had to stay behind the guide's vehicle at all times. This meant that our vehicle often had a much poorer view of the wildlife as we were always at least one vehicle length and often 3, 4 or 5 vehicles further away from the wildlife. Not a problem for more common animals but very frustrating when we saw lions, cheetahs, leopard or jackals or rather didn't see because we were not there in time or had our view blocked by other vehicles. This would have been even worse in high season when there will be more vehicles in the parks. Because of this, the 3 of us in the assistant guide's vehicle had a much poorer animal viewing experience than those travelling in the guide's 4x4. I mentioned my concerns to the guide on more than one occasion but was told that there was no movement between vehicles and I was quite insulted when I was told to buy a better camera when I explained that I was finding it difficult to photograph wildlife even if when using full zoom on my camera. After leaving Masai Mara we headed back to Nairobi and 5 of the group headed home. It was not clear from the Explore site or trip notes that the Tsavo part of the trip was actually an extension and that we would not have an Explore guide with us. Only 2 out of the group of 7 had opted to travel to Tsavo and we had a night in Nairobi after the others left before a very early start for our train journey to Tsavo. I don't know why we weren't seated together for the 4 hour train ride from Nairobi to Voi as our train ticket had reserved seating and with 2 solo females it would have been better if we had been sitting together on the train journey. The Tsavo extension added around 50% to the cost of the trip and although I thoroughly enjoyed my time at Kipalo Hills it was not worth the extra expense from a wildlife viewing perspective. I had full day game drives in both Tsavo East and Tsavo West and we were very lucky to see a lioness in Tsavo East but I saw very little in Tsavo West despite the efforts of the guide and driver. Although Tsavo is the biggest game park in Kenya the terrain makes it very difficult to spot anything other than elephant, zebra and giraffes. Even bird spotting is very difficult as the noise of an approaching 4x4 causes everything to take flight. Kipalo Hills is situated in Mbulia Conservancy and on the first afternoon we had a short drive in the conservancy but only saw guinea fowl, hornbill and a couple of elephants because of the terrain. Apart from at the Nairobi hotel all meals were included on the trip and the buffet meals at Aberdare Country House, Ark and both Sarova properties offered a wide selection to suit most tastes. The food at Kipalo Hills was of good quality but there was no choice as Chef Daniel simply came to your table and told you what he had prepared for the meal. There was a group tip kitty of $30 for the first part of the trip and at the welcome meeting we were told by the guide that he expected a tip of $50 minimum. Explore trip notes suggested an additional $40 tip for those on the Tsavo extension but on arrival at Kipalo Hills my room contained a note saying that guests were expected to tip at least $15 per day for the tip kitty which was split between all staff and to also individually tip their guide and driver. As I was there for 3 nights and had 2 full day game drives this meant another $85. Overall this was a good trip but I am left disappointed by the fact that it could have been a great trip had the guide listened to the concerns I raised. I have raised this matter with Explore in the hope that future travellers do not face similar issues.

A very rewarding trip with excellent sightings of many animals and over 140 different species of bird. The animals seen included: African Elephant Coke’s Hartebeest Cape Buffalo Plains Zebra Black Rhino Olive Baboon White Rhino Yellow Baboon Lion Colobus Monkey Cheetah Vervet Monkey Leopard Giant Forest Hog Spotted Hyena Warthog Rothschild Giraffe Bushbuck Maasai Giraffe Dwarf Mongoose Hippopotamus Black Mongoose Nile Crocodile Genet Impala Squirrel Eland Tree Hyrax Waterbuck Rock Hyrax Defasa Waterbuck Leopard Tortoise Grant’s Gazelle Gerenuk Thomson’s Gazelle ***-*** Wildebeest Agama Lizard Topi Monitor Lizard Just 2 small hiccups. Firstly, the initial meeting with the tour leader didn’t take place as planned, due to the hotel not passing on a message. Secondly, we were informed at the last minute that tips for the Tsavo East extension were additional to those specified in the trip notes. This worked out at an extra 40$ per person.

The Highlights of Africa was EXCELLENT and our guide, Hussein was brilliant. A guide makes or breaks your holidays and is the most important part of an experience. Things were so good on our transfer to Tsavo. We had a "freelance" driver in a borrowed truck (old and smelly diesel) who's people skills were lacking. He didn't seem to know what was expected of him, didn't tell us anything about the park unless interrogated by us 3 ladies, and wasn't terribly friendly. On arrival he informed us that the afternoon drive would be TWO HOURS. We objected strongly and we did, in fact, get 3 1/2 hours. After 3 drives, we then found out that he was leaving us. We then realised that the hotel was booking these drives in a third or fourth party transaction. We couldn't get through to Liberty via WhatsApp (number not recognised) so we went on to their website and left a message. We never did get a response. Meanwhile another of our party, Frances Swift contacted Explore and immediately our problems and concerns were addressed. The following morning we had a new (very smart, very professional and a great guide) take us for the remaining two drives. What a shame we hadn't had Geoffrey throughout. When we arrived at Kiliguni Serena the hotel was very full. We wondered whether, as a small party of 3, we were relegated to a freelancer and perhaps the hotel hoped we were seasoned travellers and safari experts. We also knew our rights as the hotel (Harriette) told us we'd be joining us with another group! We flatly refused and informed her that this trip had cost a lot of money and we were not sharing our truck with others. I think Explore put some pressure on "whoever". In the end the last two drives were wonderful and we saw a lot of game and visited areas of Tsavo that we hadn't seen before. Geoffrey was a great guide. Hussein made our holiday. He cared for us all, drove well, both on safari and along the main roads, shared his love of Kenya and its people and we were all sad to say goodbye. The Mara Leisure Hotel, in my opinion, wasn't as good as the others. Dark and dingy, not as clean in the public areas as the other hotels and our rooms were impossibly hot despite the fan going overnight. The room though was large, beds comfy and facilities in our room good. No wifi in any of the bedrooms. The dining area was dark (you nearly couldn't see what you were eating), likewise the hanger-like reception which was the only area that you could guarantee wifi. The pool wasn't a pool! It was a tiny plunge pool and you couldn't even get wifi there. So perhaps have another think about the Mara Leisure? A dirty paper hanky lay on the floor outside the ladies public toilets for three days!!!! And on arrival, we had few facilities. No tea and coffee station. No water in the hotel fountains. As soon as a party of Americans arrived, the facilities miraculously appeared! NOT good. The facilities for the drivers was poor too. Tiny cramped bedrooms and they all had to share a toilet and shower. Not acceptable in the 21st Century. These guys work long hours, are the "figurehead" of Explore and deserved to be treated much better. The hotel let Explore down. Facilities for the drivers and guides need to be explored (excuse the pun) as I believe they deserve more respect for the job that they do with us travellers.

I was cared for very well and every day was an adventure, spotting all sorts of wildlife. The vehicles and tracks in the Masai Mara were very bumpy at times and you get bounced around. This is known locally as an 'African massage'. Don't think you are going to be sitting still in the vehicle, because you are not. You can stand up and take photos and ask the driver to stop if you spot something. The accommodation was extremely comfortable with lovely friendly and helpful local staff. The food was also very good and I think everyone is catered for regarding diet as it is mostly a buffet with many choices. I need to go on a diet after this. I went on my own but was in good company as everyone is there for the love of wildlife. We had one glitch in Tsavo where we were given a driver/guide who was a freelance person and not as good as the others with his communication as to what we were doing and his skills to spot things, though he did his best. That driver then had to leave as and we were arranged with another driver who worked for the Kilaguni Lodge and was much better. At the Ark Lodge, they feed the birds at times in the evening enabling people to see more birds and wildlife close up. Similarly at Sarova Lodge. Kilaguni Lodge in Tsavo has a terrace with beautiful outlook overlooking the African plains and a water hole with many animals and birds coming to drink. Each accommodation has its own special aspects. It was an epic decision for me to spend that much money on a holiday but I am really glad I did so as I had a very memorable and fabulous time.